Off the beaten track: Five hidden gems in Maasmechelen, Belgian Limburg

Say the word Maasmechelen and it is instantly associated with Maasmechelen Village – the outlet shopping centre for discounted brand clothing. Surely however, the local people of this former mining community don’t spend their weekends hanging out in this tourist magnet. When asked, they proudly reveal some of their hidden treasures :

1. De Koetsier
Genootstraat 20
Tel: +32 89 79 13 55
Website: www.dekoetsiermaasmechelen.be
Opening times:
High season (school holidays): From 11am every day except Thursdays
Low season: From 11am every day except Wednesdays and Thursdays

De Koetsier

This renovated coachman’s house and property is not only an organic farm specialising in Limburg herbs, it hosts a bed-and-breakfast, a quaint tavern with Italian-influenced cuisine and home-brewed remedial teas, a herbal sauna as well as a wide range of workshops and nature walks.

Owner Francesco, of Sicilian roots, offers visitors to his tavern local, seasonal homegrown fare using ingredients such as Jerusalem Artichoke or Jack-in-the-Bush. Mention an ailment such a stress or migraine and Francesco, who also lectures at Maastricht’s European Academy for Herbalists, will concoct a personalised cup of tea to remedy the complaint. These teas are also available in dry form to take home. During the summer he hosts barbecues in the charmingly restored courtyard while kids can take a peek in the small petting zoo.

Besides the indigenous herbs growing wildly throughout the garden, Francesco also experiments with an array of forgotten vegetables such as black salsify, kohlrabi and swedes. Visitors are encouraged to take a walk around in the small vineyard, orchard and herb garden, inspired and based on the four natural elements; earth, wind, fire and water.

De Koetsier is the culmination spot for the monthly Full Moon Herbal Nature walks. (The next one takes place on the night of 9 May.) Reservations can be made through the VVV Office (Tourist Office) of Maasmechelen. (V.V.V. Maasmechelen, Zetellaan 35 3630 Maasmechelen Tel.: +32 89 76 98 88. Fax: +32 89 76 98 92, www.toerismelimburg.be)

Situated in the garden is the wooden sauna cabin where for EUR 25 per person one gets exclusive use of the building for 2,5 hours. Dry sauna, steam bath, herbal sauna or herbal Jacuzzi are the items to be found on this menu with a Thai herbal full body massage also available on request.

Mythology, old tales, legends and dream weaving are Francesco’s pet topics and he is more than willing to share them with visitors on a guided excursion of his herb garden (at times when the tavern is less busy). On 4 June and 25 June he will be giving a lecture on the Magic of Herbs in the Maasmechelen library (EUR 1) or the Vita Centre Maaseik respectively. Novices will learn, not only about the health and restorative properties of herbs but will also get the chance to make a day cream for women and a sports gel for men. Lectures start at 20h00.

In short, De Koetsier is an unmissable destination for anyone looking for a piece of old world charm and tranquility or with an interest in herbs.

2. Vilain XIIII Castle
‘t Kasteelhof Vilain XIIII
Dreef 148, Leut – Maasmechelen
Tel: +32 89 79 02 80
Email: info@kasteelhof.be
Website: http://www.kasteelhof.be/
Opening times:
Open every day from 11am
Kitchen open until 9.30pm
Restaurant times: 12pm – 3pm and 6pm – 9.30pm
Closed Mondays

Vilain XIII Castle

In the picturesque village of Leut lies the Vilain XIII Castle set in an 80 ha park designed by renowned English garden architect Peterson. In the secluded garden are woodlands, orchards and a plant bedecked walkway leading to seven beech trees –planted at the birth of each of Charles Ghislain Vilain’s daughters. The original features of this garden are still preserved today and visitors can enjoy the blend of landscape architecture built up over different periods.

No one is sure when the first stones of this castle were laid but the earliest impressions date from the first half of the 16th century. Its rich cultural history has seen it inhabited by aristocracy of the German Kaiser, the Saksens, Dutch, Spanish, protestants and Catholics until at last, the man who bestowed his name on the place, Charles Ghislain Vilain XIIII – a diplomat, Belgian minister of Foreign Affairs, MP and mayor of Leut – made it his home. He died in 1878 leaving behind seven daughters.
In 1920 the castle became the property of the Eisden Mine Patrimony who transformed it into a hospital for injured miners and their families. After the closure of the hospital in the 1980’s the building gained national heritage status.

Housed in this historical castle is a brasserie with a lovely view of the garden where visitors can enjoy a drink or light meal such as spaghetti, toasted sandwiches, asparagus (house specialty) and even lobster. Upstairs in the renovated fruit cellar is an a la carte restaurant where a 3 – 4 course meal costs around €60 including suitable wines. The restaurant offers a lovely smoking salon for die-hards as well as an extensive champagne menu for bubble enthusiasts.

3. A Walk in the trees
Kruinenpad
Zuid Willems Kanaal
Langstraat
Eisden-Dorp, Maasmechelen
Website: www.toerismelimburg.be

A Walk in the trees

Another unique experience in Maasmechelen is taking a walk amongst the branches of the trees 11 – 15 metres above the ground looking out over protected natural springs. The water in these springs takes over 50 years to seep here from the Hoge Kempen where it originally falls from the sky.
As a result of many years’ mining activity, the ground level of the village of Eisden Dorp has dropped a total of 15 metres and is the only place in Limburg where this is visible. To compensate for the falling ground level the banks of the Zuid-Willems Canal have had to be raised time and again and it is precisely this phenomenon that became the focus point of the residents’ committee of Eisden Dorp: Make something beautiful out of this scar on our landscape – and the idea of the Kruinenpad or Tree Top Walkway was born.

To reach the Tree Top Walkway one has to park the car on the dike wall in Langstraat, Eisden Dorp at the site of the Hanging Gardens or Hangende Tuinen – a resting spot for cyclists. In fact, this whole route is better seen by bicycle.

Although I know of two other Tree Top Walkways in Europe (in Kew Gardens and in Northhampton), this is the only one accessible to wheelchairs. It is particularly spectacular in summer when the trees are in full leaf and, it goes almost without saying, is great place for bird watching enthusiasts. The Treetop Walkway is accessible the whole year round and is free of charge. A guided tour of the area is available on request. (V.V.V. Maasmechelen, Zetellaan 35 3630 Maasmechelen Tel.: +32 89 76 98 88. Fax: +32 89 76 98 92, www.toerismelimburg.be)

4. The Nargile Lounge
Oude Baan 310A
Maasmechelen
Tel: +32 485 681 851
Email: nargilelounge@hotmail.com
Opening times:
Every day as from 6pm
Reservations required for Fridays and Saturdays
Wednesdays are for ladies only

The Nargile Lounge

The Nargile Lounge is very possibly one of the best kept secrets in Maasmechelen. (Nargile is a Turkish word meaning water pipe.) Legend has it that a clairvoyant with the gift of the third eye, after many thousands of hours of meditation, saw a vision of a nargile and felt compelled to bring this source of energy and health to the people. In the vision it was revealed that it should be smoked while sitting on the floor, connected to the earth. Although it originated in Turkey, its popularity rapidly spread to Egypt, India, Indonesia, Afghanistan and Pakistan.

Smoking the nargile is a social custom that brings people closer together. While in Asia it serves an important social function, in the West it has often been mistakenly associated with the smoking of pot or hashhish. At the Nargile Lounge, Turkish owner Metin will frown at this suggestion of drugs. He even goes so far as to prohibit alcohol from his premises.

The Nargile Lounge focuses on personal attention and a relaxed Eastern feeling. Coloured lights, billowing muslin curtains, private enclosures for groups of friends and Eastern music set the scene. It is a spot frequented by artists and actors, amongst others, who come here to partake in the guitar lessons, film evenings, garden terrace and dance evenings on offer. For guests with something to celebrate Metin allows them to bring along their own food and cake at no extra cost since the Nargile Lounge has no kitchen.

There are many different fruit flavours of the water-pipe to choose from but if you don’t find one that takes your fancy the owner is happy to prepare his own concoction based on your personal requirements. For instance there is orange flavour for positive energy or jasmine which acts as an anti-depressant and concentration stimulant. A nargile costs EUR 8, lasts for 2 hours and is passed around amongst friends. Each visitor gets his/her own mouthpiece to attach to the pipe.

Smoking a nargile is traditionally accompanied by a cup of tea or coffee and this too is an experience worth mentioning. The teas have fruit and honey flavours such as watermelon or cherry or apple and are distilled over boiling water to draw out their healing properties and gentle taste. If brewed in the right way, claims Metin, they release certain pleasure hormones in the brain. Slow brewed flavoured coffees and warm milk with honey are also available.

In short, for a wellness experience that’s certainly off the beaten track or a memorable night out with a group of friends, the Nargile Lounge cannot be rivalled in atmosphere and originality.

5. Café De Statie
Spoorwegstraat 2/n
3630 Masmechelen
Tel: +32 (0) 89 70 37 67
Email: info@cafe-de-statie.be
Opening times: Open from 11am (closed Mondays and Fridays)

Café De Statie

This renovated former station building, situated at the edge of the woods with access to the nature reserve Hoge Kempen, is an excellent departure point for walkers, horse riders and cyclists. On arrangement one can even catch a steam train from here. (info@kolenspoor.be)

Nature enthusiasts can ramble through the fields of eco-friendly farmers experimenting with old grains like buckwheat and oats. In September these fields are in full flower and truly breathtaking to see. Also in early autumn it is possible to see a breeding pair of buzzards teaching their fledglings to fly, noisily encouraging the young ones to venture from tree to tree.

At the start of the 20th century the Eisden Station played an important role in the mining history of Limburg. Besides the tons and tons of black gold that was transported from here weekly, it was also the final destination for thousands of travelers coming to Eisden to earn their wages, or kezem (kezem means 2-weekly wages), as it’s known in local mine dialect. The last commercial train left the station in the 80’s where after the old building was renovated.

It is still the property of the Eisden Mine Patrimony that today houses an excellent café with an inviting terrace offering 32 Belgian beers, 10 of which are Trappist beers (brewed by or under control of Trappist monks). The menu, although somewhat limited, has items such as Limburgse vlaai (Limburg fruit tart), sandwiches, soups, and toasted sandwiches.

It’s plain to see that Maasmechelen is more than just a destination for shopaholics. Inquisitive visitors are in for a much more satisfying experience should they be prepared to do a little exploring. A memorable day out is certainly on the menu if one chooses to visit one of these hidden gems.

By Colette Victor

Colette Victor, a South African expat, has been living in Maasmechelen for the last eight years. She works in a local community centre, enjoys writing and is passionate about the environment.